Методи за реформиране на водород

[sheki]

Това е добре познатият D14.pdf, който може да се види на panaceauniversity.org :-)

sheki, кажи ако разполагаш с информация за дизайна на клетката. Тази на Стан Майер е с тръби (една в друга). Неръждавейки.
Руснака Канарев е направил нискотокова клетка с конусовиден вид.

ами гледах някаде конструкция със пластини .. както ги нареждат по акомулаторите .. няколко пластини дистанцирани с болтове и гайки също неръждавейка .. за съд бяха ползвали ПВЦ за водна инсталация ама с по - голям диаметър, по принцип .. едва ли ще има голямо налягане (по безопасно е да няма) затова в линковете които бях сложил по горе (в един зип по -точно) има планове и схеми за управление на дебита на такава клетка с честотно модулиране .. според педала на газта като се следи и налягането и новото на водата, там също ако се съди по картинката са използвали тръби за електроди с различен диаметър.

една комерсиална версия  

REACTION CHAMBER
Construct as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-andepoxy or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure.
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get your
chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

[sheki]

нещо подобно на 9-та страница



п.с. ъплоада на картинки май работи

[jantar]

Като се прави електролизера за автомобил да се има в предвид ефекта от разплискването при завои и дупки:)
По-добрата конструкция ще е с няколко секции  с малка площ на водното огледало.

[mzk]

Ето на какво попаднах, чудейки се защо разграждащата клетка на Канарев има неутрална плоча в средата!

i just joined a few days ago and i figured i'd contribute a bit for others to toy around with some other ideas.

i've seen cells us nuetral pipes or plates between the connected cathode and anode. according to the settup, each nuetral plate stays completely isolated from the charged pipes but transfer the energy right through them selfs as if they wern't ever there. further more, each nuetral pipe would act as if it was actualy charged which results in decrease of needed power to create the same amount of fuel.

according to the theory and practice, an added nuetral pipe or piece to the electrode reduces power needed by one half. each additional nuetral piece would then reduce power neededs by one half once again. from the practices i've seen and read about, normaly a maximum of 3 to 4 nuetral plates are used which means you can only do it so much before it starts loosing it's effect.

so for an example:

settup 1: using only a cathode and anode with a 12v DC supply at 5amp is creating an example fuel rate of 500cc per minute *again, this is only an example*

settup 2: using one nuetral piece between the cathode and anode creates 500cc per minute with a 12v DC supply at 2.5amp.

settup 3: using two nuetral pieces between the cathode adn anode creates 500cc per minute with a 12v DC supply at 1.25amp.

use 3 nuetral pieces and jump down to 0.625amp and so on. this is only theoretical on the numbers though but they do come close according to what i've read.

i am currently working on a multi cell simular to Meyer's instead using 19 units.

each cell uses two nuetral pipes inside the cathode and anode.
each cell consists of the following pipe sizes:

Anode - 20mm outter diameter / 18mm inner diameter / 133mm length
Nuetral outter - 14mm outter diamater / 12mm inner diameter / 133mm length
Nuetral inner - 8mm outter diameter / 6mm inner diameter / 133mm length
Cathode - 2mm diameter *stainless steel rod* / 140mm length

according to my readings, what gas amount you would see from the normal settup at 12v DC with 10amp current, this cell would see the same gas production out of 12v DC with 2.5amp current.

the pipe sizing may seem a bit extreme, but are possible through metricmetal.com. as soon as my custom polycarbonate tube comes in for the main tank structure, i wont be able to test this fully for my self *polycarbonate is simular to plexiglass but about twice as strong with a higher corrosion resistance and a temp tollerance of upto 280 degrees F, perfect for thermaly enhanced production near boiling points*. i will have some pics up for you all within the next month or two. if you wish to try this your self with the mentioned metal sizes above, you'll have to go through a large comercial or corperate metal company like interwest metals to order the pipes because metricmetal.com isn't licensed to deal with private buyers.

http://www.waterfuelcell.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=615

Has anybody built an electrolyser using aluminium plates instead of stainless steel?

I have done some basic tests using various aluminium objects in my perspex test-tank, and the results seem to be a lot better than what I am getting from my stainless steel electrolyser.

The Aluminium does however break down or oxidise, but I don't see that as a terribly big issue. It would cost a LOT less to build an electrolyser from aluminium than stainless steel, so even if you had to chuck it away every few thousand km of operation in your car and install a new one, I don't see it as a big problem.

Also, After watching some joe cell experimental videos, and doing some research, I am almost convinced that inserting Neutral plates in an electrolyser is a pretty good idea to improve production.

Yea, "neutral" plates are what series cells are all about. Of course the term neutral is misleading. They are not neutral at all, they are just floating and not physically connected with actual metal conductors. They behave as voltage divider points within the solution.

http://oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=929&view=previous&sid=820323fefd4309682d2a26b051d29eb6

[sheki]

както изглежда неутралните плочи между електродите не променят продукцията на газ а само намалят потреблението на ток, абе много ми е интересно .. плочите в харддисковете от каква стомана са направени и дали няма да вършат някаква работа като електроди

[jantar]

Със сигурност плочи от харддискове няма да ти свършат работа! Те са дуралуминиеви и са боядисани.
Само неръждавейка.

[Siso]

Здравейте !!!
Аз съм нов тука но мисля, че ще мога да споделя малко полезна информация за реформинга.
Процеса реформиинг се използва при производство на амоняк за добиване на водород от природен газ. Природния газ с налягане 40atm се пуска през тръби в които има пълнеж от никелов катализатор. Тези тръби се нагряват докато температурата на газа достигне до около 400 C при което газа почва да се разпада на водород и въглероден оксид.

[Vetap]

Това ми се вижда дооста сериозно:
http://www.doppstein.com/press_releases/index.html