Ok, how it works, and can be VALIDATED using a SINGLE car battery, is that it allows a chemical restabilization of the battery between bursts. The reason I keep saying this is because it's not the easiest thing for people to learn, so I will walk you through this, because it is of importance to understand this before you attempt to connect the controller to it.
If you have a well used car battery that is about 60% sulfated, but still reads 12.40 or more volts, it will be perfect for this. You will need a 100 Amp Load tester with the analog meter to perform this test. Borrow one for 5 minutes if you must.
Connect the load to the battery. Observe the reading on the meter. Now switch on the load. The battery (if well used and sulphated) will NOT be able to sustain a 100 amp load for 10 seconds. It will sustain the load for about 4 seconds and then the needle will just plummet to zero available volts.
Now wait 10 minutes (literally 10 minutes) and re-connect the load. This time, instead of switching it on and holding it on, cycle the switch rapidly, to pulse discharge the battery. The load bank coils in the meter will glow just as hot now as it would if it were connected to a NEW battery. Clearly this battery being dead should NOT be capable of powering this 100 amp load. Now if a DEAD battery can power the same load on spike discharging, then what would a GOOD battery do in the same scenario?
I made this discovery during a major storm when I needed power for firing the boiler for heat. It was winter and sub-zero temps (minus 50 degrees Celcius outside combined with 160 Km/ hour windspeeds).
So I built the controller.
Now as per battery rating to actual output via the controller:
If you have 8 batteries, all rated at 10 Ah, this will give you either 80 Amps of power for an hour, or 10 amps of power for 8 hours in a standard parrallel battery bank.
If you now connect these batteries through the controller, each battery now last 10x longer at the SAME AMPERAGE, but now the TIME that the amperage is available is LONGER by 10x. So you can pull 10 amps out for 80 hours now. In a parallel setup as per this controller, in the way that it connects, the battery MUST be capable of sustaining the load BY ITSELF for 1 hour.
Now if you are needing voltages higher than single batteries can give you, then you would need 8 BANKS of batteries, the banks connected in series, and combined via parallel connections through the controller. So instead of 'Battery 1', 'Battery 2' etc, it would be BANK 1, BANK 2, BANK 3, BANK 4....etc.
The charging requirements for the batteries will remain the same. The controller doesn't increase the battery voltager nor amperage of the batteries, it merely extends the TIME that the voltage and amperage of the batteries is available.
So by allowing a chemical equalization of the cells in the batteries to stabilize between bursts, this gives the batteries 10X LONGER TIME that the power is available, not just Amperage or Voltage. It merely extends the TIME using chemistry to allow the battery to work more efficiently.
AS PER INVERTER QUESTION.
Yes the frequency can be changed to 40-50 hz. These inverters use a 2 stage BUCK INVERTER TRANSFORMER to generate TRUE SINE, and the driver is a simple 555 Timer. You can build a more powerful inverter than you can buy. For the same money, I can build 4x the inverter with more features, and such at home. More power, more amperage, cooler running, more efficient, and I can make the circuit boards, wind the transformers, etc by hand here at home.
EV QUESTION:
First, your English is not bad. Try to translate Sign Language to English, because Sign has a total absence of a lot of words, a lot like the difference between R.I.S.C. Program language and F.I.S.C Program Language. They can be translated, but it's not very fast or easy to do on the fly.
I will think about your situation and get back to you on this soon. I have played with several Electric Vehicles, and have some interesting insight to offer that may be more feasible than you are aware of.
AlaskaStar
